Saturday, 10 August 2013

Peak District August 2013


            This last week I have spent a week climbing in the peak district. As it was Orrin Coley's Birthday he decided to have his party at a cottage with a group of friends and go climbing for the week.
Day 1
            After everyone arrived we decided where we would go and decided on Odin’s Cave to get on The Dark Room. We loaded up the cars and headed off only to arrive and find the place soaked. The route looked amazing though so would be really psyched to get back there again soon. We decided after this that we would head off to Raven Tor and do some bouldering there. Once we arrived I got going on warming up. First up I did “To Hard For Mark Leach” V5, which I managed to do quite fast. Then I wanted to get on “Perverse Reverse” V8, which is the reverse of Weedkiller. I soon got all the moves sorted on it and then started to try and get it done in one go. I had a few goes where I wasn’t getting very far and had to get some better beta on it. With that done I had a really good burn on it and got right to the last few moves on it. Rested up I went for it and managed to stick the crux move and got the final jug. Sick. We then got news of a footless version of To Hard for Mark Leach graded V8. Good training route. I almost managed to flash it but pulled to hard and overshot a hold by about three inches. I managed to get it on my third go, which I was pretty psyched with. I then did some laps on it for training. Good day
Day 2
            Second day saw us heading off to Stanage Plantation. Once we walked in I realised it was going to be very hot for hard grit. I warmed up and then had a quick go on “Zippys Traverse” V8 but I was greasing off so many of the holds. I left it after a few goes as it was going to destroy my skin. I then had a play on “Rose and the Self-Employed Businessmen” V7 and decided the same. To Hot. I then walked up and re flashed “The Green Traverse” V6, then did “Ron’s Reach” V6 on my third go and then “Green Slap” V6 on my fourth go. After these quick ascents, we went over to do some of the highball boulders, seemed like a reasonable idea as we had so many mats with us. I got on “Crescent Arete” and sent that. Then went and did “Not To Be Taken Away” V5. It took me a couple of goes to get the first move done but once I had managed it, I managed to get the rest of the route done. Flippin’ scary route this one… After a little break I then got on “Broken” V5 and sent it on my fourth go. Bit of a dodgy fall to get my head around but once I had taken it a couple of times I managed to pluck up the courage and did it. After this, Orrin wanted to get on “Big Air” which is a bit of a strange route (watch the video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU5EgqRsUnw). Because of the dodgy fall we built a landing zone for it. It had a really good landing once we had finished with it. Props to Orrin for flashing this…
Day 3
            Third day saw us at Rubicon so that some of us could go for sport climbing and others could do some bouldering. Me and some of the others wanted to go and check out the cornice at Water-Cum Jolly so we walked round there only to find it dripping wet. Still got really psyched for this place and really want to get back there at some point. Once we walked back to Rubicon I got on a route called “Rubicon” F7a and got the onsight on it. Amazing route. I then went on a boulder called “Kudos” V8 that is the start of a route that I want to get on. The boulder felt hard and it took me quite a few goes to get. I was psyched to get this though so that next time I can get on the route for the full tick.
            Everyone then lost psyche for Rubicon, as it was pretty sharp so we grabbed an ice cream and headed off to Curbar for some late afternoon grit. On my ticklist for this crag was “Trackside” V6. It has been one of my nemesis problems for such a long time. I warmed up and got on it and felt quite good on it. I kept tickling just below the top hold and falling. I had a quite a few goes where I kept doing this, before leaving it for another time when it is colder. I headed up to the gorilla warfare boulder where I re did “Gorilla Warfare” V6 and started working “Early Doors” V7. I got all the moves done on it quite fast and started to try and link it from the ground. It took me quite a few goes and I kept dropping the very last few moves. On what I thought would be my last go of the day I managed to link it and get the problem done. Good day this one. Lots of classics.
Day 4
            The fourth day saw us going back to Raven Tor where I planned on getting on some more routes this time. I was still yet to do a route at the tor. I warmed up going for an on sight on a route called “Sardine” F7b+ but I dropped the crux move. I rested, got on and managed the route second go. The next route I wanted to get on was “Tin Of” F7b. I managed to get the on sight on this route after a very big fight. Psyched to have finally done some routes at Raven Tor and will hopefully get some more done there soon.
Day 5
            The last day was a bit of mission as we had lost one of the cars. This meant that I had to do two trips to the crag. And to add to this was that we had to move out of the cottage. This meant taking our entire luggage to the crag with us. This saw us heading back to Raven Tor for the short walk in and because it was raining. I was absolutely shattered so had a quick play on “Chimes” F8a and called it a day.
            The trip was really good and has got me really psyched for some more outdoor climbing. Thanks again to Jonny White, Billy Ridal, Orrin Coley, Sarah Pashley, Tash Allcock, Gracie Martin, Naomi Tilley, Flo Tilley and Tara Hayes for sick trip. Pictures of the trip will be up soon...
I am heading back to Rubicon next week and then at the end of the week is a trip to Fontainebleau. Look out for a blog about these up and coming trips. Peace out peeps.

Ticklist
Routes
Rubicon   F7a   Onsight
Tin Of   F7b   Onsight
Sardine   F7b+   2nd Go

Boulders
Perverse Reverse   V8
Kudos   V8
To Hard For Mark Leach Footless   V8
Early Doors   V7
Rons Reach   V6
Green Slap   V6
A Bigger Splash   V6   Onsight
Not To Be Taken Away   V5
Broken   V5
To Hard For Mark Leach   V5
Crescent Arete   V2/3